Back to Baja . . . for one weekend!

Hola, Baja Buffs! I hope everyone is doing well, staying safe and healthy. Reporting on our recent quick trip to Rosarito and Valle de Guadalupe. Although the border is still “closed,” we had no problem crossing south. We had a great breakfast at Rosarito’s La Estancia, not as busy as usual. I had received word from Kris Magnussen Shute of Vinos Lechuza that they (and several other Valle wineries) had just been given the green light to re-open, albeit in a limited capacity and with a number of safety measures. So, in the name of research, we had to check out re-opening weekend, right?

On our way to the Valle, we stopped at the Puerta Al Valle Farmers’ Market, on the free road just outside of La Mision. It wasn’t big (maybe six or eight vendors), but we enjoyed visiting with Bart Berry and purchased a packet of his The Baja Gourmet smoked yellowtail. Delicious! We also bought some chowder from another vendor.

Bart Berry has smoked yellowtail, smoked cheeses, New York steaks on Saturdays at PAV.

We had intended to stop at Las Nubes, but didn’t want to be late for our Lechuza reservation. Upon arriving at Lechuza, we were very impressed with the safety precautions being taken by the staff. There was a quick process at check-in, and all staff members were wearing masks and face shields. All visitors were seated outside, and social distancing was in place. 

Adam and Kris at Vinos Lechuza.

We love the friendly ambiance at Lechuza, and we love their wines! Although we gravitate toward reds (their Amantes blend is our fave), we enjoyed their new white wine, Vuelo, a blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Chardonnay. It’s fantastic to see Adam and Kris carry on the tradition of her dad, Ray Magnussen, who founded Lechuza with his wife, Patty, but sadly suddenly passed away three years ago.

Our cute little socially distanced table at Lechuza.

Leaving Lechuza, we journeyed west and stopped at Corona del Valle. We knew they were open and we love their Tempranillo Nebbiolo! We were also impressed with their safety precautions. Again, we sat outside, and social distancing was being practiced.

Other folks enjoying the afternoon at Corona del Valle.

Corona DID require us to order some food with our tasting, so we happily shared a yummy ceviche, the perfect afternoon snack.

According to Comite Provino BC, these additional Baja wineries have reopened: Alximia, Casta de Vinos, Decantos, Emevé, Hacienda Guadalupe, MD Vinos, Relieve, Rondo del Valle, Solar Fortun, Vinicola Regional de Ensenada, Vinos Pijoan, Viña de Frannes, Viña de Liceaga, Viña Emiliana, and Las Nubes.

On our way back, we stopped to visit the cabinet shop/home of friend Gary Stafford, who shook up delicious martinis. Unfortunately, Gary has just tested coronavirus positive; he believes he became infected the weekend AFTER we visited him. We wish Gary the best in getting better soon! Then on to dinner at Tapanco (I love their salsa and their mariscos en alumino), and Sunday breakfast at Los Pelícanos, which was doing boom business.

Again, we were very impressed with the safety precautions in place at every venue we visited, with face masks, face shields, temperature-taking and more. And we had no problem crossing back into the U.S. on Sunday.

Read this interesting article, also published in Sunday’s The San Diego Union-Tribune. Hopefully, there will not be a big resurgence of COVID-19 cases in weeks to come, and we can get back to what we do best . . . regularly eating and drinking in Baja!

P.S. A quick update from Baja Sur: the Scorpion Bay Hotel is now open! Reportedly, their remote, tiny town of San Juanico had been completely closed. So, it’s good to hear that news, as it is a lovely property run by a wonderful family.

Gracias por photos by Bob Gove.

 

 

 

 

 

A look back, a look ahead

2019 was a very good year for eating and drinking in Baja! Here’s a quick recap of some of our favorite events:

Chef Drew Deckman’s offerings at Vinedos en Flor.
  • In July, we attended Cocina La Baja at the Estero Beach Hotel/Resort for our first time. What a great event! Beautiful setting, live music, fantastic restaurants/chefs, and cooking demos. Impressive!
Chefs Drew Deckman and Javier Plascencia at Cocina la Baja.
One of more than 90 pans at the Concurso de Paellas.
  • Sabor de Baja, held one evening each August at the Rosarito Beach Hotel, gets better year after year, with new restaurants, wineries and craft breweries represented. Keep up the great work, Bo and Dennis!
Getting fired up at Sabor de Baja.
  • Our road trip to Scorpion Bay in September was the first time I’ve been down the highway past Guerrero Negro in many years. We loved our stay at the Scorpion Bay Hotel, and enjoyed many eating and drinking opportunities along the way.
Ceviche at Vista al Mar just south of Loreto. As delicious as it was beautiful!
A bit more crowded this year, but the Valle Food & Wine Fest stays classy.
  • We spent a very rainy Thanksgiving brunching in Tecate with friends at Asao, wine tasting at Viña de Frannes and Hilo Negro in the Valle, and followed by a tasty Baja-style turkey dinner at the cozy Susanna’s in Rosarito.
Thanksgiving appetizer at Susanna’s: a light, fluffy and delicious corn tamal.

We look forward to many great events and experiences in 2020! Save these dates; we’ll publish details and info about additional events as they become available.

  • Festival de las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo – May 3 (main event)
  • Viñedos en Flor – June 13
  • Concurso de Paellas de Ramón García Ocejo – August 23
  • Sabor de Baja – August 26
  • Valle Food & Wine Fest – October 3 (tickets now on sale!)

Gracias por photos by Bob Gove.

What we ate & drank this summer

What a fantastic Baja festival season! We’ve got a lot of memorable eating and drinking to share; let’s get on with it!

Cocina La Baja – July 27

This third annual all-seafood fest was new on on our radar screen, but what a winner! Held at the lovely Estero Beach Hotel & Resort just south of Ensenada, it sold out this year. Cocina La Baja spotlights super-fresh local and sustainable seafood from folks who truly care. Well-organized and beautifully presented, more cervecerias were on hand than wineries. We loved being in the presence of Baja royalty: Chef Javier Plascencia led a cooking demo of farmed totoaba, and Chef Drew Deckman made the rounds. Tix: less than $16 U.S. for a full afternoon of gastronomical delights. Incredible! We’ll definitely be back next year.

Beautiful setting at the Estero Beach Hotel & Resort!
One of the many yummy offerings at Cocina La Baja.
Smiling chefs Drew Deckman and Javier Plascencia.

Several Baja craft breweries were represented, including Agua Mala.

Concurso de Paellas – August 18

I was fortunate to first attend the fledging but still popular Valle de Guadalupe Concurso de Paellas de Ramon Garcia Ocejo way back in 1996. It has grown, but remains a wonderful way to spend an August afternoon! With 92 paella-producing teams and 62 wineries to sample, how can you go wrong? We congratulate “paelleros” Los Chatos and Vivencias on their wins this year!

A lovely August afternoon under the oak trees of Vinas de Liceaga.
WOW: Just one of more than 90 presentations of paella at the 2019 Concurso.
Loved seeing Natalia Badan and her Mogor Badan colleague at the event . . .
. . . as well as Victor Torres, patriarch of Vinicola Torres Alegre. So special!

Sabor de Baja – August 28

Bo Bendana and Dennis Sein recognized Baja’s culinary potential back in 2013, when they launched Sabor de Baja. And, the event keeps getting better year after year, with careful pairings of many of Baja’s best restaurants, wineries and craft brewers in the beachfront gardens of the lovely Rosarito Beach Hotel! Congrats to Tecate’s Amores, matched with wine from Monte Xanic, on taking first place in this year’s competition. But we attendees were the real winners! I’ve said it before: Sabor is a true labor of love by Bo and Dennis. It shows, and is much appreciated! Check out this cool video by Rosarito’s Scot Richardson.

A highlight for me: chatting with RB Hotel’s Hugo Torres and his lovely wife at Sabor.
Dennis Sein presided over the formidable task of judging the dozens of pairings.

Como siempre, gracias to Bob Gove for the fine photos.

Counting down to Sabor de Baja!

It’s just four weeks ’til Baja Norte’s gastro party of the year, Sabor de Baja. And, this is the fifth annual Sabor; all the more reason to attend! Sabor is a true labor of love by Chef Bo Bendana and her hubby, Dennis Sein. This dynamic duo pulls together Baja chefs, wineries, craft brewers and more for one fabulous evening in the gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel. And, Sabor is a friendly but serious competition; a panel of judges has the daunting task of sampling each dish along with its beverage pairing, and then selecting the best of the best. Attendees get to vote, too, as a People’s Choice Award is presented each year! We are excited that several new-ish restaurants will be participating this year:

Sabor takes place Wednesday, August 28 at the aforementioned RB Hotel. Spring for VIP tix at $90 and get early access at 5:30 pm, tastings and beverage pairings, plus seating at tables near the stage, waiter service, a goodie bag, and the commemorative wine glass. General admission guests ($70) will have access at 6 pm, tastings and beverage pairings, and the commemorative wine glass. Everyone can enjoy live music and dancing, including Rosarito favorite Maryam Malak, whom we were fortunate to hear during a delicious and very filling brunch at Ruben’s last Sunday! Read my recap of Sabor 2018, then click here for more information, including how to get tickets. See you at Sabor!   

Valley Girl Wines wins the 2018 People’s Choice Award!

Viñedos en Flor at Monte Xanic

Another fave Valle de Guadalupe event, Fiesta de los Viñedos en Flor, will take place this Saturday, June 15. The event will feature local artisans, regional food, and over 120 different wines.

The family-friendly festival (those under 18 years of age enter free!) will also offer kite flying, tractor rides through the vineyards, and art projects for kids. This year’s event will benefit the San Vicente Shelter in Ensenada, which provides assistance to locals and immigrants in need. We’ve been to Viñedos twice: three years ago at Vinos Bibayoff, and two years ago at Finca La Carrodilla. It’s a fun event with plenty of wine, but warning: food (other than random samples) is not included in the ticket price; however, there are reasonably priced options available for purchase. Still, a great way to spend an afternoon (noon to 6:00 pm) in the Valle! We believe this is the first time Monte Xanic has hosted Viñedos, and we look forward to attending Saturday.

Click here for more information and tickets.

Team EatDrinkBaja at Viñedos 2016.

Under the winemakers’ tent at Viñedos 2017.

Welcoming flowers on hay bales capture the Valle vibe.

Discount Alert: Valle Food & Wine Festival!

Our fine friends at the Valle Wine & Food Festival, coming up Oct. 5 through 7 in Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe, have graciously provided a discount code for our friends & followers. If you’re planning on going, purchase NOW, because prices go up at midnight Friday, Sept. 14! Click here and use promo code EATDRINKBAJA. There’s a star-studded lineup of chefs from both sides of the border, and a variety of experiences over three days; the main festival takes place Saturday, Oct. 6 from 4pm to midnight at Javier Plascencia’s Finca Altozano. A portion of the proceeds will benefit the Corazon de Vida Foundation. So, GET ON IT; we hope to see you there!

 

Best. Sabor. Ever.

I’d say last week’s Sabor de Baja blew the roof off the place . . . but the only ceiling was the beautiful Baja sky! The beach side gardens of the grand Rosarito Beach Hotel were once again filled with white-clad attendees, anxious to sample the offerings of 27 chefs paired with an equal number of wineries and craft breweries. Congratulations go to First Place winner Chef Marco Marin of Latitud 32 in Valle de Guadalupe for his delicious plum crumble with piloncillo, paired with (and incorporating) Border Psycho’s yummy black saison, La Belga Sicotica (and, great to visit with Psycho’s Roberto again!). Second Place was earned by Rosarito’s Sokuna Cocina de Asia and Chef Stephen Sovann, paired with MD Vinos. I loved the Third Place pairing, Valle de Guadalupe’s Tizne’s sope de platano maduro with requeson and charred tomatillo, paired with delicious Syrah/Nebbiolo from Vina Emiliana. And, it was a treat to meet una Hija de la Tiznada, Chef Miriam! The People’s Choice Award went to Tijuana’s Koi Sushi and Chef Yaron Del Moral, for his pairing with Valley Girl Wine. For what it’s worth, Tijuana’s Oryx Capital’s seductive, smoky uni chowder, topped with an artsy tiny tostada and paired with Vinas las Erre Blanc, got my vote! This was the best Sabor we’ve attended, fantastic chefs, careful pairings, thoughtful planning. Thank you, Bo Bendana & Dennis Sein, for all the love and hard work you put into this event; it really shows. Under your direction, the event has grown and matured – and will continue to do so – along with the now red-hot Baja culinary scene. We especially appreciate the fact that you have introduced us to local restaurants that we can visit on our own! The 5th Annual Sabor de Baja will take place on Wednesday, August 28, 2019 at the Rosarito Beach Hotel. Catch this classic end-of-summer Baja tradition!

With La Tizne Chef Miriam

Almejas with aguachile at Sabor!

Oryx Capital’s uni chowder

Glad to see Valley Girl as a winner again this year!

AND look for an update soon on the NEXT BIG BAJA THING: the Valle Food & Wine Fest Oct. 5-7 in Valle de Guadalupe!

Gracias for photos by Bob Gove.

New chefs at Sabor de Baja!

We love Sabor de Baja, and are really looking forward to the August 29 event in Rosarito! Sabor is well-organized, with careful pairings of chefs with Baja wineries and craft breweries. Judges have the difficult task of blind-sampling the offerings with beverage pairings; attendees also vote for a People’s Choice award. This year promises to be extra-delicious, with a number of chefs participating. We are anxious to sample the offerings of:

Tix include all food & wine, live entertainment, a commemorative wine glass, and more! It’s a great way to sample Baja’s newest spots, all in one lovely location. A limited number of gold tickets (early entry, reserved seating near the stage) MAY still be available for $85; silver tickets are $70. Don’t wait – get your tix NOW via sabordebaja@gmail.com or 664.533.2479. The event is a fantastic evening in the beachfront gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel; it’s an all-white party, so dress accordingly! Sabor promises to be extra tasty this year; we hope to see you there.


Gracias for photos by Bob Gove.

Summertime – and the food fests are plenty

There’s never a BAD time to visit Baja, as our past adventures have demonstrated. However, summertime is food fest time, and some of our very favorites are on the horizon:

Verbena Campestre – Saturday, July 28 – San Cosme Vinedos
LOVE this first-class festival, as well as the family that runs San Cosme. It’s a refreshing bit off the beaten track, located south of Ensenada and Maneadero, where the “old wine route” begins. We’ve found this fest to be more authentic Mexicano than most others; we’ve spotted very few other gringos, and everyone is always ultra-friendly and welcoming. With free wine tastings for the first 1,000 guests, craft beer, artisan products, live music and tons of grilled food options, it’s a real winner. Book a cabin or tepee at Las Canadas across the highway, dance the night away, and join the conga line without having to drive back. Tickets are (YAY!) now available online. If you’re still on the fence, watch this cool video recap from last year.

Fiestas de la Vendimia Paella Contest – Sunday, August 19 – Vina de Liceaga
Every year, there are more and more events during Fiestas de la Vendimia, the grape harvest festival, in and around Valle de Guadalupe. You can’t go wrong with any of them. However, our fave is the closing event, the venerable Ramon Garcia Ocajo Concurso de Paellas. I first attended this event more than 20 years ago and, although it’s grown considerably, it continues to be well-organized, a ton of fun, and a classic Baja Norte afternoon. With 90+ paella-producing teams present, (cooking only over wood fire, thank you!)  and 50+ wineries pouring, you won’t go hungry or thirsty. Arrive early, stake out a table under the trees, and enjoy live music on two stages and the fantastic ambiance all afternoon. As of this writing, tickets are still available!

Sabor de Baja – Wednesday, August 29 – Rosarito Beach Hotel
Sabor is the classy way to wrap up the summer Baja food fest season. A true labor of love, this event pairs many of Baja’s top chefs with its best wines and craft beers. It’s a friendly competition, but legitimate – the judges really DO blind tastings, plus attendees vote for the People’s Choice award. There’s live music, and it all takes place in the lovely beach front gardens of the classic Rosarito Beach Hotel. It’s worth a jaunt to Rosarito on a Wednesday evening . . . it’s summertime, so no one will notice if you get to work a bit late Thursday . . . right? Don’t forget your mandatory all-white attire and your dancing shoes. For tickets, email sabordebaja@gmail.com, and check out the very reasonable ticket/stay packages at the RB Hotel.

Save the Date: Valle Food & Wine Festival – October 5-7 – Valle de Guadalupe
Really excited about this autumn event! More info to come soon; in the meantime, check out this link.

Kick off the Baja Food Fest season with Conchas!

You know Spring is here when the Festival de las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo comes around! This fest has expanded into a week-long series of educational and culinary opportunities including A Day of Oysters, An Afternoon of Mussels, special Chefs’ Dinners, and more. Saturday’s Parrillada at Quintas Papagayo just north of Ensenada sounds fabulous (read my colleague W. Scott Koenig’s write up on his blog, A Gringo in Mexico), but we’re gearing up for this Sunday’s main event at Hotel Coral. A lovely setting, an abundance of fabulous shellfish and vino, and exceptional access to many of Baja’s best chefs and winemakers. Hope to see you there; as of this writing, it looks like tix are still available!