Conchas: An Oyster Lover’s Paradise

OK, the real name is Festival de Las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo. But those of us who have been attending for years just refer to it as Conchas. Held every spring by the marina at the lovely Hotel Coral north of Ensenada, Conchas is the unofficial start of the annual Baja wine and food fest season. And here we go!

Comite Provino does a great job staging their events.

In theory, the event showcases Baja’s oysters, clams, mussels and abalone. In reality, there are a LOT of oysters. Not that we’re complaining!

Gotta love an oyster-filled wine barrel!

Great to see Drew Deckman of the Valle’s Deckman’s en el Mogor at Conchas.

Conchas attracts a crowd, but we’ve never found it unmanageable. Just grab a table early!

The Three Amigos – great participants in Team EatDrinkBaja at Conchas 2023.

Look for a post soon about our visit to the Festival de los Vinedos en Flor earlier this month. And we look forward to Cocina La Baja on July 15 and the big Concurso de Paellas on August 20! Tickets for both are now available.

Otra vez, gracias por fotos by Bob Gove.

Lunario: Over the Moon (Valle Girls’ Trip, Part 2)

My good friend Patti and I packed a lot of fun into our recent two-night stay in Valle de Guadalupe. A highlight was our dinner at Lunario.

I’d visited the Lomita Winery several times over the years; as a matter of fact, learning about Lomita when they participated in a Baja-related event at Mingei International Museum eight or nine years ago helped inspire me to launch this blog. Lomita opened my eyes, made me realize there was more to the Valle than long-time wineries I was familiar with: LA Cetto, Pedro Domecq, Santo Tomas, Monte Xanic and Chateau Camou.

Nothing against the longer-established wineries, of course. But getting acquainted with Lomita back then made me wonder .. . what the heck is going on down there?

Since, the Valle has exploded. And like many wineries, Lomita has added dining options. After hearing great things about Chef Sheyla Alvarado, I wanted to check out her most recent Valle venture.

Lunario is tucked a short walk across from the Lomita tasting room. Lunario is a small room, and reservations are important. 

Patti and I had opted for the six-course tasting menu, with pairings (why not?). We had fantastic attention from our server, the sommelier, and others. 

Here’s an overview of the plates we enjoyed at Lunario. Try not to drool on your phone or keyboard.

Amuse: A tease as to what is to come. Oysters, pistachios & sheep cheese. A delicious prelude. Yums.

Course #1: Requeson, Tomato & Carrots. Paired with a 2022 Chassels from Cavas del Mogor. I believe more pistachios were involved here.

Course #2: Crudo with Cantaloupe Seed Aguachile, paired with a Lomita 2020 Chardonnay. Fresh and delicious! 

Third course-:”Lobina,” sea bass zarandeado. A very upscale version of what you might order at a beachside shack in Popotla, just south of Rosarito. Deilicious. This was paired with a Mantis Wheat Orange beer from Ensenada’s Aguamala, which we thought was a bit weird (we prefer wine!)

On to the next!  A plantain tamal with black recado, paired with a 2018 Cavas del Mogor Pirineo .I’ve encountered many tamales in my life, from Baja to Oaxaca, but this was the most interesting!  Yummy, but in a strange black package. But I guess that was the idea!

Since neither Patti nor I consume red meat or pork, sticking to veggies, seafood and poultry, Lunario adapted our tasting to replace goat with a wonderful mushroom dish. Much appreciated! Paired with a 2018 Cabernet from Finca La Carrodilla, Lomita’s sister winery.
Coming down to the end of our culinary adventure at Lunario, we enjoyed a pre-dessert of mango, vanilla & kumquat.
The REAL dessert was composed of raw cream, strawberries and peas (an ingredient one rarely encounters in a dessert). Accompanied by a Lomita wine with bubbles, poured out of a can. Fabulous!
As you can see, several of the dishes were served on base layers or “puddles.” Which seemed a bit repetitive. But, we enjoyed it all and did not complain! Lunario is definitely worth your visit.
 
Sunday we checked out of Casa Mayoral and headed north. My plan was to do one final tasting at Hilo Negro before taking the back road out of the Valle through La Mision. However, rather than staying on the paved roads, I bravely took a short cut on the dirt road that passes Laja and Finca Altozano.
 
Note to self and others – do not attempt this road in the rainy season in a Nissan Versa hatchback. Charging a significant mud bog, my little car became totally stuck, not able to move forward or backward. Yikes!
 
I’ve been traveling throughout Baja for a long, long time. I’ve always treated people with respect and have never been fazed by stories of bad guys/banditos. And I know, especially when one is off road, folks who travel in Baja look out for others. 
 
Patti and I had several concerned folks come by. The first couple, Latinos/as in a truck with California plates, called in Spanish for a tow truck, but were told none were available that morning. But an SUV packed with family also noticed our distress. The driver rolled up his pant legs, hooked up a tow strap, assured me that it would be easy to yank my little car out of the mud bog, and voila! We were free and, needless to say, went back to the paved roads to get back to SD. We tried, but the family refused payment. Thank goodness for karma!
 
I wish I had pics of this ordeal, but since we were in eight or more very yucky inches of mud, it was not pleasant. I was focused on getting out and not focused on posting on social media. The best I can do is this pic of my extremely muddy black leather boots as we stopped on our way back to SD. Not sure if my boots will ever be the same!
 
I am VERY grateful for the family who stopped and yanked us out, as well as for the help of Patti, who played a significant role in getting us out of the muck. 
 
On to the next adventure!