Tag Archives: baja wine

Adios 2022; Hola 2023!

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Hola! Muy Feliz Año Nuevo! 2022 is now in our rear-view mirror. However, we certainly had some great experiences last year eating and drinking in Baja.

2022 brought the post-pandemic return of some of our favorite food and wine festivals. Excited by the revival of the Festival de Las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo along the marina at Hotel Coral in May, we arrived super early and secured a fabulous table as our hub for the afternoon. That was key, since Team EatDrinkBaja later swelled to 13 strong! (Thanks, all.) Conchas features many of Baja’s best wineries and restaurants. Although celebrity chefs Javier Plascencia and Drew Deckman did not appear to be in attendance as in the past, we mowed our way through dozens of booths with oysters, clams, abalone and more . . . and, of course, multiple wine tastings! It was wonderful to spot other Team EDB members in the crowd and exchange “reviews” of recently-visited booths. Our MO: eat, drink, compare notes, get back in line, repeat. An incredibly fun afternoon.

Team EDB!!

On June 11 we traveled down to Valle de Guadalupe for the Viñedos en Flor festival, held on the grounds of the Monte Xanic winery. While not as impressive as Conchas, Viñedos has a cool, rural, family-oriented vibe, with kids’ activities and a petting zoo. And it was fantastic to reunite with Natalia Badan, an early founder of wine making in the Valle who chaired this fest five or so years ago when it took place at Finca La Carrodilla.

I consider Natalia as the Katherine Hepburn of the Valle.

Very special: the patriarch of F. Rubio pouring their vinos.

In July, the Cocina La Baja festival returned to the Estero Beach Hotel south of Ensenada. Bob attended solo, but reported that it was among his favorite Baja food fests due to the variety of dishes available to attendees, the chef cooking demonstrations, the abundance of offerings by Baja craft breweries . . . and, of course, the spectacular seaside venue!

Ah, August . . . the Concurso de Paellas at Viñas Liceaga in Valle de Guadalupe! Truly my favorite way to spend a sweltering summer afternoon. This event is so special – you can bring in food and non-alcoholic beverages. Attending over the years has taught us to not only pack hats and sunscreen . . . but also a tablecloth, veggie and hummus tray, and a small rolling cooler. Gotta get there early and stake out a great table in the shade of the big oak trees, strategically positioned between the wine tasting and paella-serving booths. Some folks do it up really fancy, with china, silverware and cloth napkins! But the paella –  cooked over wood fires by 90 teams competing for honors – is the star of the show. Plus, there’s live music and/or a DJ on two stages. A Baja tradition – in reality, a Baja happening.

We were glad to see the Valle Food and Wine Fest return in October, albeit with some changes. Due to limitations on really large events in Valle de Guadalupe in recent years, this fest downsized . . . and increased significantly in price. Relocating from Finca Altozano to Bruma (on the eastern end of the Valle), the 3-day fest included chef’s dinners on Friday evening, a main event on Saturday night, and a “Valle Fest Brunch” on Sunday, which we attended . . . since we were just coming back from taking Bob’s boat to Avalon for the Catalina Jazz Festival! (Yes . . . living la vida loca.) To their credit, the Valle Fest brings in major, internationally-known chefs. It was wonderful to see and chat with Rick Bayless and other chefs at the brunch. And attendees appeared to be having a good time. However, this event is definitely at the high end of the $$ spectrum compared to other Baja food and wine fests, with the Saturday night event at $250 and the Sunday brunch at $190 (once they finally lowered the price, thank you). As Bob opined, it was a nice event, but should have been half the price. I agree whole heartedly.

Rick Bayless, an impressive chef and an early advocate of Mexican cuisine.

That’s our wrap-up of the 2022 Baja food fests we enjoyed! Promise: we’ll soon give you a quick recap of Baja restaurants visited in the past year or so, as well as a preview of 2023 Baja food fests. We’re back on the post-pandemic track now!

As Daisy Fuentes famously said at the end of her MTV Latino shows years ago, “Ciao-cito, babies!”

Como siempre, muchisimas gracias por photos by Bob Gove.

So close to El Cielo, but a world apart

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We recently trundled down to Valle de Guadalupe to visit Valle Girl Vino‘s tasting room, El Corcho Rosa (the pink cork). We had met founder and CEO Sitara Monica Perez at Baja food and wine events, but had never visited her winery. What drew us in like a magnet was news of an event pairing Valle Girl wines with artisanal cheeses from Tecate. A great excuse to visit in the name of research, right?

Arriving in the Valle a bit early, we stopped at Las Nubes for a quick tasting. This was our first visit to Nubes since they reopened in June after closing due to coronavirus. We were impressed with Nubes’ safety precautions (temperature taking, hand sanitizer, face masks, table distancing). But due to diminished capacity and visitorship, instead of offering three different types of tastings, they are down to just a single tasting of four wines: a white, a rose, and two reds. We love their wines, and we adore the view. Oscar, our server, was very attentive and ensured that we wrapped things up in time to roll down the hill.

Las Nubes’ socially-distanced tasting patio.

El Cielo – one of the (if not THE) most extensive winery complexes in the Valle – is a neighbor to El Corcho Rosa. Nothing against El Cielo, but personally I do not visit the Valle to patronize such a megafacility. I call El Cielo “Temeculized.”

In stark contrast, Valle Girl’s rustic but fun tasting room stands about one mile west of El Cielo. With a warm welcome by Sitara, dirt floors, eclectic decor and a smattering of tables in a couple of tasting areas, we felt right at home. And, there were misters to help beat the heat!

We shared a communal table with some fun fellow wine and cheese lovers. Lola and Aracely of Perma Farms, a farm/sanctuary with 250 free range animals, brought their cheeses and explained each variety as they were served. And Sitara or her lovely daughter, Ava, introduced each of the wines.

Aracely and Lola of Perma Farms provided ample servings of their cheese.

Valle Girl founder and CEO Sitara Monica Perez.

Valle Girl president and sommelier Ava Carolina Perez, a true dama tatuada!

Here’s the lineup of pairings we enjoyed:

  1. La Chula dry Moscato served with queso panela
  2. La Traviesa Provence-style rosé with air-dried jalapeño cheese
  3. La Chula Vin Gris with chilipitin-flavored cheese
  4. La Traviesa South Rhone-style Grenache rosé with Monterey jack
  5. La Traviesa South Rhone-style Syrah rosé (which tastes like a watermelon Jolly Rancher) with mozzarella
  6. La Dama Tatuada (translation: the tattooed lady), a 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon with touches of Syrah & Grenache paired with aged queso oreado
  7. La Vaquera Grenache with a touch of Cabernet and Syrah with queso Oaxaca
  8. A bonus (but much appreciated!) pairing of Moscato/Grenache Blanc (not even labeled yet!) with queso fresco

Well, we really weren’t socially-distanced, but all worked out.

We were served SO much cheese, we had to take some home in a doggy bag. It was a fun (and filling) event! Next time, we hope to visit El Corcho Rosa on a Saturday afternoon, when there is live music. To quote Valle Girl’s slogan, Vaya Con Vino!

Gracias por photos by Bob Gove.

 

Coronavirus Casualties

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Sad but true: all our beloved Baja food and wine festivals have been canceled this year. The list stretches from the Festival de las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo (originally scheduled for early May) all the way to the big Valle Food and Wine Festival (planned for early October). In addition, the many 30th annual Vendimia events, including our favorite Concurso de Paella, did not take place, nor will the lovely Sabor de Baja, which was slated for next Wednesday. 

A bright spot is this Sunday’s wine and artisanal cheese pairing at Valle Girl Vino’s El Corcho Rosa. According to CEO/winemaker Sitara Monica Perez, there will be seven different pairings, all with handcrafted cheeses from Perma Farm near Tecate. The event is a reasonable $30 per person, and I have been warned there will be so much cheese served, I should bring a doggy bag! Click here for more information. To make a reservation for this event, which kicks off at 2pm this Sunday, email sitara.perez@gmail.com.


Back to Baja . . . for one weekend!

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Hola, Baja Buffs! I hope everyone is doing well, staying safe and healthy. Reporting on our recent quick trip to Rosarito and Valle de Guadalupe. Although the border is still “closed,” we had no problem crossing south. We had a great breakfast at Rosarito’s La Estancia, not as busy as usual. I had received word from Kris Magnussen Shute of Vinos Lechuza that they (and several other Valle wineries) had just been given the green light to re-open, albeit in a limited capacity and with a number of safety measures. So, in the name of research, we had to check out re-opening weekend, right?

On our way to the Valle, we stopped at the Puerta Al Valle Farmers’ Market, on the free road just outside of La Mision. It wasn’t big (maybe six or eight vendors), but we enjoyed visiting with Bart Berry and purchased a packet of his The Baja Gourmet smoked yellowtail. Delicious! We also bought some chowder from another vendor.

Bart Berry has smoked yellowtail, smoked cheeses, New York steaks on Saturdays at PAV.

We had intended to stop at Las Nubes, but didn’t want to be late for our Lechuza reservation. Upon arriving at Lechuza, we were very impressed with the safety precautions being taken by the staff. There was a quick process at check-in, and all staff members were wearing masks and face shields. All visitors were seated outside, and social distancing was in place. 

Adam and Kris at Vinos Lechuza.

We love the friendly ambiance at Lechuza, and we love their wines! Although we gravitate toward reds (their Amantes blend is our fave), we enjoyed their new white wine, Vuelo, a blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Chardonnay. It’s fantastic to see Adam and Kris carry on the tradition of her dad, Ray Magnussen, who founded Lechuza with his wife, Patty, but sadly suddenly passed away three years ago.

Our cute little socially distanced table at Lechuza.

Leaving Lechuza, we journeyed west and stopped at Corona del Valle. We knew they were open and we love their Tempranillo Nebbiolo! We were also impressed with their safety precautions. Again, we sat outside, and social distancing was being practiced.

Other folks enjoying the afternoon at Corona del Valle.

Corona DID require us to order some food with our tasting, so we happily shared a yummy ceviche, the perfect afternoon snack.

According to Comite Provino BC, these additional Baja wineries have reopened: Alximia, Casta de Vinos, Decantos, Emevé, Hacienda Guadalupe, MD Vinos, Relieve, Rondo del Valle, Solar Fortun, Vinicola Regional de Ensenada, Vinos Pijoan, Viña de Frannes, Viña de Liceaga, Viña Emiliana, and Las Nubes.

On our way back, we stopped to visit the cabinet shop/home of friend Gary Stafford, who shook up delicious martinis. Unfortunately, Gary has just tested coronavirus positive; he believes he became infected the weekend AFTER we visited him. We wish Gary the best in getting better soon! Then on to dinner at Tapanco (I love their salsa and their mariscos en alumino), and Sunday breakfast at Los Pelícanos, which was doing boom business.

Again, we were very impressed with the safety precautions in place at every venue we visited, with face masks, face shields, temperature-taking and more. And we had no problem crossing back into the U.S. on Sunday.

Read this interesting article, also published in Sunday’s The San Diego Union-Tribune. Hopefully, there will not be a big resurgence of COVID-19 cases in weeks to come, and we can get back to what we do best . . . regularly eating and drinking in Baja!

P.S. A quick update from Baja Sur: the Scorpion Bay Hotel is now open! Reportedly, their remote, tiny town of San Juanico had been completely closed. So, it’s good to hear that news, as it is a lovely property run by a wonderful family.

Gracias por photos by Bob Gove.

 

 

 

 

 

Baja in a Time of Coronavirus

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It’s been a tough three months, hasn’t it? Trying to stay safe and healthy, and dealing with racial injustice and resulting fallout. Let’s pray that the second half of 2020 will be much better!

Some random insights on what’s going on south of the border:

Border Closure. In theory, the US/Mexico border is closed to all but essential travel. But I have several friends (who shall remain nameless) who have been down multiple times in the past three months since the purported “closure,” with no questions or problems. However, they all drive across, and all have SENTRI passes. U.S. and Mexico officials have just extended the closure until July 21.

Approaching Tijuana via San Ysidro.

Ensenada Closure. According to Baja Bound’s recent Border Crossing Update, visits to Ensenada are banned for non-essential reasons, with checkpoints at El Sauzal and other entry points. But if you are going to Valle de Guadalupe, friends’ experiences have proven that there is access via the free road via La Mision; however, apparently, the highway from Ensenada to the Valle is blocked. One friend got a screamin’ deal at one of my fave Valle B&Bs in May, and reported that most tasting rooms and restaurants were closed, but products were available for takeout.

Valle Update. Kristin Magnussen Shute of Vinos Lechuza reports that they have just been given the green light to reopen, although with “limited capacity.” An encouraging sign! Be sure and make reservations if you plan to visit Lechuza.

Coastal Area Restaurants. I’m sure this is woefully incomplete, but here’s a smattering of news: twenty-eight of Puerto Nuevo’s 30 restaurants have now reopened, so you can get your lobster fix! Splash (Km52), Poco Cielo (Km59) and La Fonda (Km59.5) have reopened and are doing brisk business. Colectivo Surf Tasting Room (Km41) is currently training staff in anticipation of reopening soon. Happy Hour Restaurante (Km43) and Kraken (Km52) are also serving. In downtown Rosarito, Susanna’s, El Nido and Bistro Le Cousteau are open. YAAY!

A recent beautiful day (with music!) at Poco Cielo

Farmers Market. Bart Berry reports that the Puerta al Valle Farmers Market is back in operation every Saturday from noon to 2 p.m. in La Mision (Km62). If you go, check out Bart’s smoked yellowtail; it looks delicious!

Get Bart Berry’s smoked yellowtail at the Puerta al Valle Farmers Market.

Food and Wine Festivals. Sadly, Comite Provino’s wonderful Festival de Las Conchas y El Vino Nuevo (first planned for May 3, then delayed until June 7) has been postponed until further notice, as has their many Fiestas de La Vendima events (planned for late July through mid-August). This includes the 30th Annual Paella Fest, scheduled for August 16! Bo Bendana is taking a “wait and see” posture on Sabor de Baja, originally scheduled for August 26. Carolina Carreno of the big Valle Food and Wine Fest planned for October 3 reports they are working with the government to see if events of their size and scope will be permitted at that time. In the meantime, ticket sales have been paused. Fingers crossed that the 2020 Baja food and wine festival shows WILL go on! 

Memories of the 2019 Paella Fest.

At least Baja eating and drinking opportunities are opening up. Please contact me with any other insights. And please, stay tuned! 

Valle Food & Wine Fest nearly sold out!

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The third annual Valle Food & Wine Festival kicks off one week from tomorrow with an impressive lineup of all-star chefs, including Wolfgang Puck, Michael Cimarusti, Rick Bayless, and Nancy Silverton. There will be a Chefs Welcome Dinner at Deckman’s en el Mogor on Friday, October 4, but the main event takes place Saturday at Finca Altozano, owned by Chef Javier Plascencia, who happens to grace the cover of the current issue of Food & Wine En Espanol. Get there early to enjoy unlimited food from more than 40 tasting stations, plus wine, craft beer and Mexican spirits tastings until 6:30 pm. Mosey over to “Talks Under the Tree,” culinary conversations moderated by Saveur Magazine’s co-founder, Colman Andrews. Stick around for great music from Baja’s Takon Machine and (YES!) Ozomatli. A portion of the festival proceeds will benefit the Corazon de Vida Foundation. According to a nice write-up in today’s Union-Tribune, attendance will be capped at 2,500 and the event is very close to a sellout, so if you don’t have tickets yet, get on it! Team EatDrinkBaja had a great time last year; we look forward to this year’s Fest, as well as “glamping” on a friend’s land adjacent to the Fest! Always an adventure.

Getting to the Fest early pays off!
Early attendees with happy feet share the “dance floor” with one of Finca’s artsy cows.
The incredible chef, cookbook author and TV show host, Rick Bayless.
Cooking over open fire is a Valle tradition.
. . . more goodies on the grill.
Team EatDrinkBaja at the 2018 Valle Food & Wine Fest. Salud!

Gracias por photos by Bob Gove.

What we ate & drank this summer

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What a fantastic Baja festival season! We’ve got a lot of memorable eating and drinking to share; let’s get on with it!

Cocina La Baja – July 27

This third annual all-seafood fest was new on on our radar screen, but what a winner! Held at the lovely Estero Beach Hotel & Resort just south of Ensenada, it sold out this year. Cocina La Baja spotlights super-fresh local and sustainable seafood from folks who truly care. Well-organized and beautifully presented, more cervecerias were on hand than wineries. We loved being in the presence of Baja royalty: Chef Javier Plascencia led a cooking demo of farmed totoaba, and Chef Drew Deckman made the rounds. Tix: less than $16 U.S. for a full afternoon of gastronomical delights. Incredible! We’ll definitely be back next year.

Beautiful setting at the Estero Beach Hotel & Resort!
One of the many yummy offerings at Cocina La Baja.
Smiling chefs Drew Deckman and Javier Plascencia.

Several Baja craft breweries were represented, including Agua Mala.

Concurso de Paellas – August 18

I was fortunate to first attend the fledging but still popular Valle de Guadalupe Concurso de Paellas de Ramon Garcia Ocejo way back in 1996. It has grown, but remains a wonderful way to spend an August afternoon! With 92 paella-producing teams and 62 wineries to sample, how can you go wrong? We congratulate “paelleros” Los Chatos and Vivencias on their wins this year!

A lovely August afternoon under the oak trees of Vinas de Liceaga.
WOW: Just one of more than 90 presentations of paella at the 2019 Concurso.
Loved seeing Natalia Badan and her Mogor Badan colleague at the event . . .
. . . as well as Victor Torres, patriarch of Vinicola Torres Alegre. So special!

Sabor de Baja – August 28

Bo Bendana and Dennis Sein recognized Baja’s culinary potential back in 2013, when they launched Sabor de Baja. And, the event keeps getting better year after year, with careful pairings of many of Baja’s best restaurants, wineries and craft brewers in the beachfront gardens of the lovely Rosarito Beach Hotel! Congrats to Tecate’s Amores, matched with wine from Monte Xanic, on taking first place in this year’s competition. But we attendees were the real winners! I’ve said it before: Sabor is a true labor of love by Bo and Dennis. It shows, and is much appreciated! Check out this cool video by Rosarito’s Scot Richardson.

A highlight for me: chatting with RB Hotel’s Hugo Torres and his lovely wife at Sabor.
Dennis Sein presided over the formidable task of judging the dozens of pairings.

Como siempre, gracias to Bob Gove for the fine photos.

Counting down to Sabor de Baja!

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It’s just four weeks ’til Baja Norte’s gastro party of the year, Sabor de Baja. And, this is the fifth annual Sabor; all the more reason to attend! Sabor is a true labor of love by Chef Bo Bendana and her hubby, Dennis Sein. This dynamic duo pulls together Baja chefs, wineries, craft brewers and more for one fabulous evening in the gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel. And, Sabor is a friendly but serious competition; a panel of judges has the daunting task of sampling each dish along with its beverage pairing, and then selecting the best of the best. Attendees get to vote, too, as a People’s Choice Award is presented each year! We are excited that several new-ish restaurants will be participating this year:

Sabor takes place Wednesday, August 28 at the aforementioned RB Hotel. Spring for VIP tix at $90 and get early access at 5:30 pm, tastings and beverage pairings, plus seating at tables near the stage, waiter service, a goodie bag, and the commemorative wine glass. General admission guests ($70) will have access at 6 pm, tastings and beverage pairings, and the commemorative wine glass. Everyone can enjoy live music and dancing, including Rosarito favorite Maryam Malak, whom we were fortunate to hear during a delicious and very filling brunch at Ruben’s last Sunday! Read my recap of Sabor 2018, then click here for more information, including how to get tickets. See you at Sabor!   

Valley Girl Wines wins the 2018 People’s Choice Award!

Viñedos en Flor at Monte Xanic

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Another fave Valle de Guadalupe event, Fiesta de los Viñedos en Flor, will take place this Saturday, June 15. The event will feature local artisans, regional food, and over 120 different wines.

The family-friendly festival (those under 18 years of age enter free!) will also offer kite flying, tractor rides through the vineyards, and art projects for kids. This year’s event will benefit the San Vicente Shelter in Ensenada, which provides assistance to locals and immigrants in need. We’ve been to Viñedos twice: three years ago at Vinos Bibayoff, and two years ago at Finca La Carrodilla. It’s a fun event with plenty of wine, but warning: food (other than random samples) is not included in the ticket price; however, there are reasonably priced options available for purchase. Still, a great way to spend an afternoon (noon to 6:00 pm) in the Valle! We believe this is the first time Monte Xanic has hosted Viñedos, and we look forward to attending Saturday.

Click here for more information and tickets.

Team EatDrinkBaja at Viñedos 2016.

Under the winemakers’ tent at Viñedos 2017.

Welcoming flowers on hay bales capture the Valle vibe.

Discount Alert: Valle Food & Wine Festival!

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Our fine friends at the Valle Wine & Food Festival, coming up Oct. 5 through 7 in Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe, have graciously provided a discount code for our friends & followers. If you’re planning on going, purchase NOW, because prices go up at midnight Friday, Sept. 14! Click here and use promo code EATDRINKBAJA. There’s a star-studded lineup of chefs from both sides of the border, and a variety of experiences over three days; the main festival takes place Saturday, Oct. 6 from 4pm to midnight at Javier Plascencia’s Finca Altozano. A portion of the proceeds will benefit the Corazon de Vida Foundation. So, GET ON IT; we hope to see you there!